It's been an action packed few weeks since my last post and we are in our final country of Egypt. Currently I am sitting in my bed at Reizeky campsite in Luxor.
Last we spoke I was in Sudan about to embark on the bush camp bonanza. All I can say for the 5 nights of desert is that I LOVED EVERY MOMENT! We drove through nothingness, following only the railway tracks and the faint trails of fellow overlanders. With nothing but sand at hand it was peaceful, pensive and evoked a sense of adventure and challenge. Us vs the desert. We went to see the Meroe pyramids which were a great introduction to the grandeur of pyramids, withstanding time and preserving hyroglyphics. It was nice to feel so isolated as we were the only tourists there and you can get right up close to the walls, only restricted from literally climbing on the ruins. Over the course of the next few days we got bogged in the sand and had to dig, push and sandmat Fanny out of her ditches. One day we moved 7km in 3 1/2 hours! Even under sweltering heat I wouldn't change a thing. It was the first time we have had to get down on our hands and knees and work to get somewhere. It felt like true overlanding only to be rewarded with crystal skys and perfect night temperatures. As the temperature cooled by mid-afternoon we played international vs. Aussie soccer games and just enjoyed being the only people around for miles. Often I had to walk for what seemed like an endless journey so that I would be a dot on the horizon and could pee in private as a bush was but a distant ethiopian dream. Some bush camps were nicely set up beside mountains that acted as a perfect cover but other nights we were not so lucky. Once we reached Wadi Halfa, to a roaring standing ovation and truck cheering, we boarded the ferry to our last country, Egypt, arriving in the beautiful and scenic city of Aswan.
A stark contrast to Wadi Halfa, which boasts little more than sand and falafel, Aswan felt modern and alive. Our hotel was just by the nile front, with a rooftop pool overlooking the city and the waterfront. Felucas, row boats and moderately sized cruise ships took full advantage of the nile adding an even greater sense of luxury to the already picturesque city. Palm trees, reeds and other oasis-inspired greenery lined the edge of the nile followed directly by endless sand and desert. Though hard to admit, almost the entire truck headed straight to Macdonald's as our first call of action. Though after 4 months of truck food, local delicacies and a stretch of desert (and thus soy mince everything) the first chance to engage in a home comfort and unecessary indulgence was very exciting. The Macdonalds was right on the nile, with a view to die for and a menu far greater than the usual Rideau Street McChicken. I had a double Big Mac McChicken - Emma, I almost shipped you one home. Spike had his birthday in ASwan and requested to have it at Macdonald's as well where they brought out McHamburglar for him and brought him behind the counter for a photo op.
Aswan has the most amazing market. The souk was right behind our hotel and stretched forever. It was colourful, sold an ambundance of everything from jewelery to spices, was covered from the heat of the sun with draping canopies and was not overwhelmingly crowded. Compared to Luxor, you hardly ever got hassled or heckled, an unfortunate staple of the men and markets in this current city. We went to Abu Simbel which I found reasserted my passion for Egyptian history and mythology. Though crowded with tourists, the imposing scale and impossibility of the structure married with the delicate and intricate relief paintings and decoration is extraordinary. As with all the temples and mouments we've seen so far, the detailed and expressive narrative etched into the walls was, for me, the most awe-inspiring historical site we've been to in Africa.
I would most definitely go back to Aswan but as with the nature of the trip we were off to Luxor within a couple days. However for 2 nights we travelled by feluca up the Nile instead of with Fanny and Nev. By far in my top 3 activities so far. Iw was on a boat with Sean, Leah, Sam, Kate, Jess and Simo and we all agreed that sailing on the Nile encompassed all the best qualities of a vacation. It was relaxing, peaceful, fun and directed by nothing other than when we wanted swim or make a toilet break. The setting was breath-taking, the temperature was perfect (it hasn't rained in Aswan for 23 years) and the water was clean and refreshing. The local food provided was delicious and abundant and lounging for 2 days induced coma-like sleeps. The only issue was the mossies that were never seen or heard but magically appeared to bite you. It wasn't bothersome as I could have sworn no bugs existed on the Nile but the bites emerged quite fervently after docking. Still it is something not to be missed. It took us 2 days to go what Fanny did in 3 hours but it was well worth it!
Once we docked we went to see the Komo Omo and Edfu (for the God Horus) temples, both equally grand with their own labyrinths of rooms and columns. Every inch of sandstone or granite is covered in relief depictions or hieroglyphics. Some original colour can still be seen and you can easily imagine the temples in all their splendor during the Pharonic dynasties. Since entering Luxor I have seen, the Valley of the Kings, 4 tombs in total including King Tut as well as the Valley of the Workers and the chief builders tomb. Here the colour has been preserved to the point where it could have been done yesterday. The various styles change according to the Paraoh's preference. Tutmosis III was a warrior Pharaoh and thus he decided to build the deepest tomb and did not bother himself with detailed, painstaking relief images. Instead his tomb is adorned with stick figures and basic paintings whereas Rameses III took full advantage of larger than life depictions of the gods and his passage into his second life, with deep reliefs and detailed designs. It was in his tomb where I found the garments to be the most clearly defined. Even sheer cloth with pleats, scaled linen and embellished headresses and jewlery are recorded with the utmost care. I really admire the Egyptians for their attention to even the smallest minutia so that nothing would get lost or obstruct their storytelling. We also visited Karnak, the temple of Amun-Re (and his wife and son) and the Luxor Temple. Karnak's hall of columns is one of the most spectacular sights I've ever seen. Each deserve a trip but Karnak is not to be missed. It is the second largest sandstone compound and just has chamber after chamber of history, each built upon further and further by succeding Pharohs. Disputes between Pharaohs are even written within the walls as newer Pharaohs would chisel out the faces of their prior kings and queens. Sadly a lot of reliefs throughout all the temples have been decimated by various religious groups, robbers and nature's elements but I was amazed at the amount that has survived over 3000 years.
We still have the Great Pyramids of Giza to go and I already feel a great affection towards Egypt. Unfortunately it has not settled so well with other members of the group, but I am lucky as I am easily mistaken for Egyptian and am not subjected so intensly to the harrasment a lot of the crew have found. A lot of people are genuinely friendly but on an overall evaluation of the trip, these are certainly the sleeziest and most grating people we have encountered. Though not a new phenomenon, men dominate the streets armed with demanding and inappropriate lines and a grab here and there is not uncommon. I walked around the city center on my own and did not feel unsafe but even with a scarf and a long maxi dress, unwanted attention is inevitable.
With just over a week left of the trip, the finish line is in sight - both stirring up sadness for one continent and excitment for the next!
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