Buenos tardes
I have just crossed the border into Bolivia and am in Copacabana. So much has happened since the last major post including Lima, Nazca, Puerta Inca, Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Puno, a couple nights stay with a local family on Lake Titicaca and a visit to the floating reed islands, the 4 day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Christmas Eve, Christmas and boxing day in Cusco. We are now making our way to La Paz for New Years.
Most Peruvian cities all have a smiliar layout. The city centers around a main plaza or square and generally includes a walking street and a general market area from which you can always figure out where you are or need to go. The tree-lined plazas have all been beautiful, surrounded by ornamental and colourful buildings, often gouvernment buildings and a church or museum. In Lima we watched the changing of teh guards one afternoon while a band played a variety of tunes ranging to Star Wars-like themes. In Lima we went bowling with the group and it felt very homely. So far most of the cities have felt very familiar and modern. The language barrier is often the only thing that reminds me I´m somewhere foreign. Its not until we start driving through the country or the mountains to more remote, smaller towns that the development of the country, subsistence living and traditional culture becomes apparent. From there we continued to Nascar where I flew over the Nazca lines. They are massive symbols created by removing the red pebbles and rocks. They are supposedly made by the Nazca people around 500AD. Its incredible because the geometric shapes can only be seen clearly from above which means these people must of figured a way to essentially fly themselves.
Puerta Inca was a lovely beach side campsite surrounded by old ruins. We were only there for one night before heading off to Arequipa and we had a massive barbeque before sleeping on the beach. In Arequipa we settled in to our hotel then went off for a group dinner at a fancy steak restaurant called ZigZag, where you could have Alpaca or Ostrich in addition to your traditional meats. They also do amazing cheese fondue. Its not a cheap restaurant but its delicious. The next day we were off to Colca Canyon and we had to say goodbye to our tour leader in training, Cade, who was joining the other truck. We would see him again in Cusco in a week but its still sad to lose a member of the truck when you get so close to everyone. Luckily we had a full day with no time to sit and dwell. We were off on a reality tour of the city and then to Colca Canyon to see the condors, the second largest bird in the world. Whilst there we visited some hot springs and relaxed our muscles before the excursion the next day. It wasn´t much of a trek in the end but it was a beautiful walk and view. Its the deepest canyon in the world. The drive was spectacular though the canyon itself wasnt as instantly breathtaking as the Grand Canyon or Fish River Canyon. We did see a condor from afar and I tried chewing on the coca leaves as the locals do to help deal with the altitude. They taste like you would imagine a leaf to taste but they have spiritual meaning among the locals as well and you can make a wish if you blow three times towards the volcanoes.
The next main activity to follow was an overnight stay with a local family on lake Titicaca. The lake is teh largest in South America, crossing into both Peru and Bolivia and is over 3800m above sea level. On the way to our island we visited the reed islands where the entire surface is literally made out of reeds. They have to keep recovering the floor every few weeks. Even their boats are made out of reeds and they only last 15 weeks before the reeds have taken in to much water and begin to sink. It is quite incredible that communities still live there. Once we reached the island we were staying at we were introduced to our families and treated like royalty for 2 days. They cooked for us and dressed us in traditional clothes. We played soccer with the kids and then spent the night dancing at the community hall. We looked ridiculous but it was a lot of fun. We thanked the families with gifts we had bought earlier, toothbrushes, washing products, fresh fruit and then had proper beds to sleep in.
From Puno, the town where we boarded the boat, we left for Cusco, my favourite Peruvian city so far. It is big, beautiful and offers everything. We met up with Cade again for 2 nights, had a massive first night out on the town and then an early rest the next as we had to get up at 4am to be ready for the Inca trail by 5. Again we said goodbye to Cade, this time most likely until Rio, once the trip was over. The next few days though had been highlighted in my mind since day one so I was thrilled we finally got to start. The first day was a nice varied walk, it took the wind out of you at parts but was definitely managable. It rained occasionally but were welcomed around 5pm to pre-setup tents, a dinner tent, our bags ready and waiting and a round of applause from all the porters who had raced by us carrying 20 kilos on their back in sandals. We had been warned of the trecherous second day and though the first 4 hours did knock you down and challenged your legs, the walk was enchanting and the views were spectacular. It rained a lot more that day and was quite cold at the tallest peak, Dead Woman´s Pass, over 4000m high, but we were down at at camp before noon and had the whole day to recover. The Pachamama team prepared tea and snacks for us and once again, we didnt need to lift a finger. The third day was a mid range between day one and two. It took us about 6 hours and I was the second girl back so the hot showers were ready and waiting. This campsite had beers and cold drinks on offer as well but I decided to celebrate with a drink once I was back in Cusco. The morning of Machu Picchu we woke at 3:30am to trek about 2 hours into the checkpoint. We left the site around 5am and arrived to the sun gates in terrential rain. We couldn´t see anything but cloud. It was a disappointing enterance but it still felt like an accomplishment and I had completed the same path as the Incas so I was proud and beaming. We walked down to Machu Picchu where the postcard shot is taken and luckily the clouds parted for a spectacular, yet quick view of the ruins. It truly is an epic sight. We walked around the ruins with our guide and the craftsmandhip and precise cutting of the stones is incredible. I definitely want to go back again outside of the rainy season but the clouds did mask the other tourists and we often felt like the only group there. It was worth every slip, sore muscle and soaking wet item of clothing. Just, as a word of advice, bring a proper poncho and do not buy one of the 3 soles ponchos available at the site, they don´t close at the sides, and definitely pay extra for a porter. They complete the trek in record time whilst carrying packs larger than their own bodies, set up everything for you and clap you into the campsite...just nuts. We took the train back and successfully completed the 24 hour challenge of not going to bed until the hour you awoke. Most of our group managed this great feat by partying at Sky Bar and buying fireworks in the city square to celebrate Christmas Eve. The night was alive with deafening sounds and sparklers, even inside the club. The streets were lined with locals selling their goods from neighbouring towns so when we walked home, the streets were blocked with hundreds of sleeping families in chullos (the knitted hat with ear flaps and a pointed head). It was an awesome night and Charlie and I have stocked up on exploding things for New Years in La Paz.
Christmas will have to wait for the next blog!
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Monday, December 20, 2010
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Time here flies by! It's been another whirlwind week.
Our first bush camp was freezing cold at high altitude right before we crossed the border into Peru. As I have bush camped before in the cold I was able to cope pretty well, though it was a shock for some of the others who were new to the concept. It was only one night though and within the day we had crossed the border, driven down to sea level and rocked up to the vibrant beach town, Mancora. Here we spent 4 days at Loki, a resort hostel/black hole. The beautiful location, awesome staff and constant parade of activities sucks you in and makes it very hard to leave. I managed to break free a couple of times to visit another more peaceful nearby town and to hit another beach to take some surfing lessons. I have surfed once before in Hawaii in my early teens and I picked it up quite quickly so I thought that natural ability would come shining through and I'd impress the too hot for words surf instructor. Unfortunately it did not work out that way and it took me a few tries to stay up on the board. Surf goddess dreams crushed, I enjoyed the hilarity of the situation with the others that did it with me and enjoyed a fabulous day on the beach. If I ever live anywhere with a beach then I have made a promise to myself that I will take up surfing properly because I absolutely love it. At night the parties were themed and went on until 4 or 5am every night. After 4 days I had racked up a $100 US bar tab and a massive zombie like demeanor. It was awesome. I had my first cook group shop and the group trusted me to make the peanut butter satay recipe that I learnt in Africa. We hit the markets and bought heaps of vegetables and fruit and 3 massive chickens all for under 180 soles (US$2.8 = 1 sole), enough for 20 people, breakfast, lunch and dinner. I also found this great little shop run by the designer herself who had just opened the day before. You could see her design studio and tailoring shop in the back and I recognized the signs of her first photoshoot on the wall, where you use your friends as models and the best natural location you can find because studios are too expensive. She had studied fashion in Equador and had always wanted to open her own store and I was her first customer! She had some amazing unique pieces. I bought 2 tops, 1 very beachy with no back and then a t-shirt with intricate sleeves and a elastic rope belt. I told all the other girls about it and I think between us we cleared out her entire stock.
From there we left to head onto another bush camp behind a giant sand dune where I slept under the stars onstead of a tent. It was amazing and so I repeated this at the last bush camp 2 nights ago at Princess Beach. I saw my first shooting star and it was just perfect. I can't believe I didn't do it in Africa, especially in Sudan when the temperature at night was absolutely right. Here it still gets a bit chilly in the very early morning hours. Everyone thankfully loved the peanut butter satay. I was a bit nervous because I had hyped it up so much but peanut butter is too expensive to buy here so we used peanut paste and added our own oil and sugar. This time we even added, ketchup, sweet chili sauce and lemon juice and it was even better then I remember. There was enough left over after people had all had seconds to feed us again for another meal but over the next 2 days it all got eaten. I was very happy it got finished though because I now hate the idea of wasting food. In Africa there was always a local hanging around to give the left overs too but here we have yet to encounter locals at our bush camps and the campsites are run mainly by foreigners that don{t really need the food. We then went on to see two museums on ancient Peruvian civilizations, like the Moche. The first was the Sipan Museum in Lambayeque Chiclayo and the Sun and Moon Temple Museum in Trujillo. An incredible people that preceded the Incas. We also saw the Chan Chan Ruins of the Chimu culture, the largest pre-Columbian mud-brick settlement in America, and the Temple of the Moon (The Huaca de la Luna) in Trujillo. All were very impressive in scale but the decoration was more simple and child-like. Very different to the Egyptians who covered every inch of wall or ceiling. I was once again blown away by the layout of both museums and the creativity of the displays.
Then it was on to another beach town where we stocked up on the next couple cook shops. They had a massive mall, Aventura in Trujillo, with a movie theatre and since there wasn't much else to do in that town Charlie, Rusty and I went to see one of the only movies in English, Devil. It was then a lazy day at the campsite and on to the Princess Beach bush camp.
Now I am currently in Huaraz. It is a small town. I have checked out the city center while most of the group has gone hiking up to Lake 69. I wasn't feeling too well and am not quite in the mood for a trek so I have stayed behind to catch up on daily chores and have explored the town on my own. I had lunch with the others who stayed behind and then we strolled through the markets to pick up truck lunch for tomorrow. It was a great chance to observe the people here and I love the fact that most still wear there own traditional dress. It is a similar style to Equador. Full pleated skirts worn from the waist are layered on top of each other to create a ruffled trim effect and are matched with a button up top and a cardigan or poncho in bright and bold colours. Often the poncho is patterned or multi-coloured and made from a thick woven fabric. Generally on top is another woven patterned fabric named K'eperina, that holds their goods or their children. They wear pale tights and loafer-esque shoes with a little heel. Most have gorgeous waist-long black hair that is then braided and topped off with the most fantastic hat. Here lies the difference to Equador. They both wear very stiff, woolen, wide-brimmed, fedora-esque hats except here in Peru the crown is much higher. I would even go as far as saying a foot high off their head. It's hard to describe but it suits the women here.
We leave tomorrow as we head down through Lima and on to one of my most anticipated highlights... Machu Pichu!
Our first bush camp was freezing cold at high altitude right before we crossed the border into Peru. As I have bush camped before in the cold I was able to cope pretty well, though it was a shock for some of the others who were new to the concept. It was only one night though and within the day we had crossed the border, driven down to sea level and rocked up to the vibrant beach town, Mancora. Here we spent 4 days at Loki, a resort hostel/black hole. The beautiful location, awesome staff and constant parade of activities sucks you in and makes it very hard to leave. I managed to break free a couple of times to visit another more peaceful nearby town and to hit another beach to take some surfing lessons. I have surfed once before in Hawaii in my early teens and I picked it up quite quickly so I thought that natural ability would come shining through and I'd impress the too hot for words surf instructor. Unfortunately it did not work out that way and it took me a few tries to stay up on the board. Surf goddess dreams crushed, I enjoyed the hilarity of the situation with the others that did it with me and enjoyed a fabulous day on the beach. If I ever live anywhere with a beach then I have made a promise to myself that I will take up surfing properly because I absolutely love it. At night the parties were themed and went on until 4 or 5am every night. After 4 days I had racked up a $100 US bar tab and a massive zombie like demeanor. It was awesome. I had my first cook group shop and the group trusted me to make the peanut butter satay recipe that I learnt in Africa. We hit the markets and bought heaps of vegetables and fruit and 3 massive chickens all for under 180 soles (US$2.8 = 1 sole), enough for 20 people, breakfast, lunch and dinner. I also found this great little shop run by the designer herself who had just opened the day before. You could see her design studio and tailoring shop in the back and I recognized the signs of her first photoshoot on the wall, where you use your friends as models and the best natural location you can find because studios are too expensive. She had studied fashion in Equador and had always wanted to open her own store and I was her first customer! She had some amazing unique pieces. I bought 2 tops, 1 very beachy with no back and then a t-shirt with intricate sleeves and a elastic rope belt. I told all the other girls about it and I think between us we cleared out her entire stock.
From there we left to head onto another bush camp behind a giant sand dune where I slept under the stars onstead of a tent. It was amazing and so I repeated this at the last bush camp 2 nights ago at Princess Beach. I saw my first shooting star and it was just perfect. I can't believe I didn't do it in Africa, especially in Sudan when the temperature at night was absolutely right. Here it still gets a bit chilly in the very early morning hours. Everyone thankfully loved the peanut butter satay. I was a bit nervous because I had hyped it up so much but peanut butter is too expensive to buy here so we used peanut paste and added our own oil and sugar. This time we even added, ketchup, sweet chili sauce and lemon juice and it was even better then I remember. There was enough left over after people had all had seconds to feed us again for another meal but over the next 2 days it all got eaten. I was very happy it got finished though because I now hate the idea of wasting food. In Africa there was always a local hanging around to give the left overs too but here we have yet to encounter locals at our bush camps and the campsites are run mainly by foreigners that don{t really need the food. We then went on to see two museums on ancient Peruvian civilizations, like the Moche. The first was the Sipan Museum in Lambayeque Chiclayo and the Sun and Moon Temple Museum in Trujillo. An incredible people that preceded the Incas. We also saw the Chan Chan Ruins of the Chimu culture, the largest pre-Columbian mud-brick settlement in America, and the Temple of the Moon (The Huaca de la Luna) in Trujillo. All were very impressive in scale but the decoration was more simple and child-like. Very different to the Egyptians who covered every inch of wall or ceiling. I was once again blown away by the layout of both museums and the creativity of the displays.
Then it was on to another beach town where we stocked up on the next couple cook shops. They had a massive mall, Aventura in Trujillo, with a movie theatre and since there wasn't much else to do in that town Charlie, Rusty and I went to see one of the only movies in English, Devil. It was then a lazy day at the campsite and on to the Princess Beach bush camp.
Now I am currently in Huaraz. It is a small town. I have checked out the city center while most of the group has gone hiking up to Lake 69. I wasn't feeling too well and am not quite in the mood for a trek so I have stayed behind to catch up on daily chores and have explored the town on my own. I had lunch with the others who stayed behind and then we strolled through the markets to pick up truck lunch for tomorrow. It was a great chance to observe the people here and I love the fact that most still wear there own traditional dress. It is a similar style to Equador. Full pleated skirts worn from the waist are layered on top of each other to create a ruffled trim effect and are matched with a button up top and a cardigan or poncho in bright and bold colours. Often the poncho is patterned or multi-coloured and made from a thick woven fabric. Generally on top is another woven patterned fabric named K'eperina, that holds their goods or their children. They wear pale tights and loafer-esque shoes with a little heel. Most have gorgeous waist-long black hair that is then braided and topped off with the most fantastic hat. Here lies the difference to Equador. They both wear very stiff, woolen, wide-brimmed, fedora-esque hats except here in Peru the crown is much higher. I would even go as far as saying a foot high off their head. It's hard to describe but it suits the women here.
We leave tomorrow as we head down through Lima and on to one of my most anticipated highlights... Machu Pichu!
Friday, November 26, 2010
Ola! I am now in Banos, Ecuador!
How to describe the past week. I´ve done so many things already it feels like the trip couldn´t have just started. I met my group. There are 18 of us, mostly British though we have someone from Holland, Spain and a few from Australia. Once again I´m the only Canadian. We have only 1 couple and a pretty even number of guys to girls. They are all pretty cool, easy to talk to and up for most things. Most have done this with Oasis or another company before so we´re all a bit more expreienced with this kind of travel. Our truck is called Felicity and she is very different to Fanny and to be honest will take a bit of getting used to. She has windows, no beach, s.e.a.t.b.e.l.t.s., and is a bit smaller in general, but especially for storage!! Nonetheless she still has seats facing in and then another section with forward facing seats and with windows, its much easier to hear and listen to music in the back.
I´ll be travelling with Christy (Tour leader) and Benny (driver) as well as Cade for the first month (tour leader in training) and Felicity (the truck). Then my fellow passengers are Charlie, Rusty, John, Dan, Dave, Keith, Kelly and Rob (out only couple), Hannah, Claire, Sarah, Sarah C, Emma (tent buddy), Cara, Marjion and Tasha. We were also supposed to get an Aussie traveller but he never made it.
I´ve been in Ecuador since we started on the 19th. We went to Otavalo, where they have the largest market on Saturdays. The streets turn into a labyrinth of market stalls reaching in all directions from this main center square. I had already been with the family before I started so I decided to walk around but luckily restrained from buying anything.
We then moved on to the Amazon, where we spent 3 days in Arajuno Lodge up the river. We trekked into the jungle, tubed down the river and visited an animal rescue center, Amazoonica. All amazing! You are just constantly surrounded by the lushious green jungle with those typical soothing bird sounds that you get on yoga CDs that you think don´t really exist, but I can tell you, they do. I sat up late in a hammock one evening and it was a perfect night. They also have a monkey named Mona who lives at the lodge and though is still wild, she is also like a family pet and always hangs around, playing with people and stealing whatever she can get her hands on. She provided hours of entertainment!
Then from there we drove on to Banos where I am now. We set up our tents for the first time, the same ones we used in Africa, and had our first truck cook group dinners! We ate chicken fajitas the first night and had lasagna last night. It looks like we will be feasting on this trip. I thought we ate well in Africa but those were 2 things we never had there, and they are our first 2 dishes! Yesterday I had an adrenaline filled day of canyonning and jumping off a small bridge before hitting the hot springs and partying hard for our first truck birthday. I have never been canyonning before and its actually quite scary. You jump off cliffs into small but deep pools, the highest was 5 meters and I was shaking a little when I jumped as its not so much the height rather than the fact you have to jump in a certain area or else bad things will happen. You also absail down cliffs and waterfalls and generally trek through the canyons. It was incredibly fun and a great way to see waterfalls up close as Banos is know for its waterfalls. Banos is a great little town, colourful and secluded, surrounded by massive mountains and waterfalls. Just watch out for the sandflies. I have been mauled by every bug alive, especially in the Amazon and my ankles don´t quite look human.
Today we´re off to our first bush camp, then on to the beach to get my tan back, which peeled off entirely after the Galapagos!
How to describe the past week. I´ve done so many things already it feels like the trip couldn´t have just started. I met my group. There are 18 of us, mostly British though we have someone from Holland, Spain and a few from Australia. Once again I´m the only Canadian. We have only 1 couple and a pretty even number of guys to girls. They are all pretty cool, easy to talk to and up for most things. Most have done this with Oasis or another company before so we´re all a bit more expreienced with this kind of travel. Our truck is called Felicity and she is very different to Fanny and to be honest will take a bit of getting used to. She has windows, no beach, s.e.a.t.b.e.l.t.s., and is a bit smaller in general, but especially for storage!! Nonetheless she still has seats facing in and then another section with forward facing seats and with windows, its much easier to hear and listen to music in the back.
I´ll be travelling with Christy (Tour leader) and Benny (driver) as well as Cade for the first month (tour leader in training) and Felicity (the truck). Then my fellow passengers are Charlie, Rusty, John, Dan, Dave, Keith, Kelly and Rob (out only couple), Hannah, Claire, Sarah, Sarah C, Emma (tent buddy), Cara, Marjion and Tasha. We were also supposed to get an Aussie traveller but he never made it.
I´ve been in Ecuador since we started on the 19th. We went to Otavalo, where they have the largest market on Saturdays. The streets turn into a labyrinth of market stalls reaching in all directions from this main center square. I had already been with the family before I started so I decided to walk around but luckily restrained from buying anything.
We then moved on to the Amazon, where we spent 3 days in Arajuno Lodge up the river. We trekked into the jungle, tubed down the river and visited an animal rescue center, Amazoonica. All amazing! You are just constantly surrounded by the lushious green jungle with those typical soothing bird sounds that you get on yoga CDs that you think don´t really exist, but I can tell you, they do. I sat up late in a hammock one evening and it was a perfect night. They also have a monkey named Mona who lives at the lodge and though is still wild, she is also like a family pet and always hangs around, playing with people and stealing whatever she can get her hands on. She provided hours of entertainment!
Then from there we drove on to Banos where I am now. We set up our tents for the first time, the same ones we used in Africa, and had our first truck cook group dinners! We ate chicken fajitas the first night and had lasagna last night. It looks like we will be feasting on this trip. I thought we ate well in Africa but those were 2 things we never had there, and they are our first 2 dishes! Yesterday I had an adrenaline filled day of canyonning and jumping off a small bridge before hitting the hot springs and partying hard for our first truck birthday. I have never been canyonning before and its actually quite scary. You jump off cliffs into small but deep pools, the highest was 5 meters and I was shaking a little when I jumped as its not so much the height rather than the fact you have to jump in a certain area or else bad things will happen. You also absail down cliffs and waterfalls and generally trek through the canyons. It was incredibly fun and a great way to see waterfalls up close as Banos is know for its waterfalls. Banos is a great little town, colourful and secluded, surrounded by massive mountains and waterfalls. Just watch out for the sandflies. I have been mauled by every bug alive, especially in the Amazon and my ankles don´t quite look human.
Today we´re off to our first bush camp, then on to the beach to get my tan back, which peeled off entirely after the Galapagos!
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
A week in the galapagos is like living in a live action wildlife documentary! It was amazing. We did an island every day and saw every animal on the list. I swam with turtles, sharks and sea lions. We saw penguins, flamingos, fur seals (still technially a sea lion though), giant tortoises (literally 200 years old - some probably met Darwin himself), land iguanas, marine iguanas (by the hundreds on top of each other) and the entire bird population. Each island has its own species so each day we would see something new. To be honest the scenery paled in comparison to what I had just witnessed in Africa but the proximity of the animals and their care-free, tame nature is incredible.
My best experience is when I snorkeled with the sea lions. They come so close to you it looks like they´re going to kiss you then they swerve around at the last moment and play a game similar to tag. They´ll swim up to your face then speed away, twirling and looping around you. The ease with which they swim is incredible, its like they are constantly dancing and the water offers no resistance. It is right up there with my Gorilla trekking experience.
The cruise ship we were on, the Celebrity Expedition, was superb. The service, food and naturalists were great. It was a relaxing atmosphere, no formal nights or massive stage shows. Just a small boat of 90 people. We would take zodiacs into the island as the ship could not pull into any ports and most were beach landings or dry landings onto natural rock. We would go on a walk in the morning and then again in the afternoon, with the option to snorkel whenever possible. The great thing about the Galapagos is that it is so well preserved and they are taking every effort to keep it from getting damaged and to save its wildlife from extinction. When the first people settled on the islands they used to kill the tortoises for food or keep them as pets and it almost destroyed their existence. There is only one saddle-back tortoise from Pinta island left and his name is Lonesome George as he has no one to mate with to rebuild his species.
It was a great week to detox from the fast-paced 4 months I had just gone through and to prepare me for the next 4 months in South America.
I meet my tour on Thursday, which I am very excited and partly nervous about. Another new group on a new truck in a new continent. I´m hoping I´m as lucky as I was in Africa!
My best experience is when I snorkeled with the sea lions. They come so close to you it looks like they´re going to kiss you then they swerve around at the last moment and play a game similar to tag. They´ll swim up to your face then speed away, twirling and looping around you. The ease with which they swim is incredible, its like they are constantly dancing and the water offers no resistance. It is right up there with my Gorilla trekking experience.
The cruise ship we were on, the Celebrity Expedition, was superb. The service, food and naturalists were great. It was a relaxing atmosphere, no formal nights or massive stage shows. Just a small boat of 90 people. We would take zodiacs into the island as the ship could not pull into any ports and most were beach landings or dry landings onto natural rock. We would go on a walk in the morning and then again in the afternoon, with the option to snorkel whenever possible. The great thing about the Galapagos is that it is so well preserved and they are taking every effort to keep it from getting damaged and to save its wildlife from extinction. When the first people settled on the islands they used to kill the tortoises for food or keep them as pets and it almost destroyed their existence. There is only one saddle-back tortoise from Pinta island left and his name is Lonesome George as he has no one to mate with to rebuild his species.
It was a great week to detox from the fast-paced 4 months I had just gone through and to prepare me for the next 4 months in South America.
I meet my tour on Thursday, which I am very excited and partly nervous about. Another new group on a new truck in a new continent. I´m hoping I´m as lucky as I was in Africa!
Saturday, November 6, 2010
I'm currently writing this from my hotel room in the Marriot in Quito, Ecuador (and paying for it at an extortionate price! Kudos to all the African hotels and campsites, that although had broken toilets and cold showers, offered FREE internet!)
How to sum up the end?! In 2 days I've crossed 3 continents going from Cairo to London to Houston to Quito! After spending the final few days in Cairo, taking in the grandeur of the pyramids and soaking in the last moments with my friends, we've come to the end and it is a strange feeling. I have an overwhelming want to continue with the group but the trip has ignited further excitement for the South America leg. Group dynamics have changed for better and worse, and after 4 months all cards are laid on the table. I've had my share of tension on this trip, but the brilliant thing about it is that where you are and what you're doing eventually prevails and you realise that despite trivial group quarrels, I am extremely lucky to be where I am and have met the people that I care about deeply now. My tent buddies have been the most amazing companions and I wouldn't have dreamed to have gotten as close to them as I did, as well as many other passengers that I almost can't imagine not seeing everyday. I have a list of people that I must see again, and have already set up a road trip across Canada with Jen and a road trip across Aus to see Jess and Simo at Christmas, followed by Kate and Sam. A hot Christmas – I can’t imagine, but Jess will show me the ropes! A trip to Japan to see Leah and Sean and experience real karaoke, meeting up with Colin in Bolivia and Felipe in Brazil, hopefully Rio while on this next leg. I have to go back to Cape Town to stay with Sohette and see everything I missed at the rushed start of the trip, while Rachelle and I are doing Mt. Kili and the rest of the world together and Thorbjorn has to call upon his slave for a day winnings either in Norway, England or Canada. Kirsti and Spike are a mere 8 hours or so away from my new abode in London, inches in compared to the great miles we crossed and so regular trips will be made. Carol and I have pinky promised to do a long weekend in Sharm el Sheikh and I'm dropping by the Middle East to reassure Nev that his hat is in good hands! It's 100% gouda cheese but bonds were forged on this trip that will last a lifetime.
As for the overlanding experience... it was amazing and I would recommend it to all. I'm now a fervent chef and can set up a tent in record time. I can do my business anywhere, just find me the nearest bush or if not available, what the hell, just turn around. It was exciting, challenging and exhilarating! I'm itching to get back on the second truck and do the South America portion and that is coming from a 5 star cruise ship in the Galapagos. It's a great way to meet people that also have the travel bug. I was never lonely and I got to share some of the best moments of my life with amazing people that enhanced the experience. I know if I had attempted it alone I would have missed half of the activities that we did and I would of spent much of my time dealing with the hassle of logistics. Fanny will always have a special place in my heart and a special place on my mantle piece (hand-crafted in Tanzania)! Hats off to Oasis. My one and only company of choice now!
As for Africa, where it all began, I could not nearly begin to describe all it has to offer and everything it has taught me. It’s a continent in contradictions and that is the best thing about it. Lucy took her first steps in Ethiopia and the Rwandan gorillas reconfirm my belief in evolution, yet in a tiny hole in the wall pub on the streets of Addis, a religious shrine is burning in the corner unabated by the obnoxiously loud 80’s music and prostitotties drumming about for business. It holds dome of the strongest symbols of faith yet is proud of its prehistoric origins. A continent, though torn and ravaged by its struggle for independence, internal wars, and then corruption of those in power, it holds the strongest sense of community and offers the first hand for friendship. Zimbabwe is still under the brutal regime of Mugabe and yet there I met some of the most helpful and forthcoming people. It is beautiful, with landscapes that make you want to freeze time and is paired with a mosaic of cultures, tribal and modern, to learn from – a very special shout out to the Masaai, Samburu and Ethiopian traditional dressmakers! It boasts beaches, mountains, desert, grassland, rolling hills, oasis’s; something (or everything in my case) for anyone. What I found most difficult to deal with was the lack of opportunity and thus often ambition for the majority of people. They have the work ethic and the stamina; they just need the chance to explore other fields. I never really felt threatened or unwelcome, (except when trying to shop in Sudan and they didn’t accept international cards in stores or at ATMS! WTF!!!) I was just married or engaged to every boy on my tour at some point. I’ve grown from this trip, I’m more aware, more tolerant, more mature (just ask my sister, at the airport I was tagged as the older sibling and that NEVER happens) and I know I’ll be back to do West Africa and revisit some of my favourite spots soon.
But now I guess I should summarize with my best 3 of everything, decided with much difficulty and constant changes. I could most likely have a top 10 of everything but like my photos (soon to finally make their debut) I need to cull them down:
Top 3 animal sightings:
1. Gorillas at Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
2. Mother and baby elephant at the waterhole in Etosha National Park, Namibia
3. Lion feeding at Antelope Park, Zimbabwe
Top 3 activities:
1. 3 day Feluca ride, Aswan, Egypt
2. Rented a car with Jen, Sohette and Rachelle to drive around Zanzibar, Tanzania
3. Skydiving, Swakopmund, Namibia
Top 3 dishes:
1. Vegetable cream bake at bush camp with chipati!
2. Peanut butter thai satay noodle
3. Stuffed green peppers and mash (my group :)
Top 3 nights:
1. Goat Races, Kampala, Uganda
2. Addis Ababa 3 night bonanza, Lalibela pub and brothels galore, didn't get home before 5am most nigths, Ethiopia
3. Shoestrings after the sunset cruise, Vic Falls, Zimbabwe
Top 3 items (still the same):
1. Saks beige cargo pants (so soft and baggy)
2. Serong
3. Hair brush (the truck windows are always open and it creates a wind tunnel!)
Top 3 campsites:
1. N.R.E. Campsite, Jinja, Uganda
2. Bishbishi, Darhab, Egypt
3. Antelope Park, Gweru, Zimbabwe
The hardest and most debated question... favourite country??
ETHIOPIA!
A great combination of culture, people, history, scenic countryside awe, food, nightlife and cool cities.
But an honorable mention to Sudan for the greatest adventure and sense of achievement!
Final words:
Don't forget Africa, I never will!
Bring it on South America... those are some pretty big shoes to fill
How to sum up the end?! In 2 days I've crossed 3 continents going from Cairo to London to Houston to Quito! After spending the final few days in Cairo, taking in the grandeur of the pyramids and soaking in the last moments with my friends, we've come to the end and it is a strange feeling. I have an overwhelming want to continue with the group but the trip has ignited further excitement for the South America leg. Group dynamics have changed for better and worse, and after 4 months all cards are laid on the table. I've had my share of tension on this trip, but the brilliant thing about it is that where you are and what you're doing eventually prevails and you realise that despite trivial group quarrels, I am extremely lucky to be where I am and have met the people that I care about deeply now. My tent buddies have been the most amazing companions and I wouldn't have dreamed to have gotten as close to them as I did, as well as many other passengers that I almost can't imagine not seeing everyday. I have a list of people that I must see again, and have already set up a road trip across Canada with Jen and a road trip across Aus to see Jess and Simo at Christmas, followed by Kate and Sam. A hot Christmas – I can’t imagine, but Jess will show me the ropes! A trip to Japan to see Leah and Sean and experience real karaoke, meeting up with Colin in Bolivia and Felipe in Brazil, hopefully Rio while on this next leg. I have to go back to Cape Town to stay with Sohette and see everything I missed at the rushed start of the trip, while Rachelle and I are doing Mt. Kili and the rest of the world together and Thorbjorn has to call upon his slave for a day winnings either in Norway, England or Canada. Kirsti and Spike are a mere 8 hours or so away from my new abode in London, inches in compared to the great miles we crossed and so regular trips will be made. Carol and I have pinky promised to do a long weekend in Sharm el Sheikh and I'm dropping by the Middle East to reassure Nev that his hat is in good hands! It's 100% gouda cheese but bonds were forged on this trip that will last a lifetime.
As for the overlanding experience... it was amazing and I would recommend it to all. I'm now a fervent chef and can set up a tent in record time. I can do my business anywhere, just find me the nearest bush or if not available, what the hell, just turn around. It was exciting, challenging and exhilarating! I'm itching to get back on the second truck and do the South America portion and that is coming from a 5 star cruise ship in the Galapagos. It's a great way to meet people that also have the travel bug. I was never lonely and I got to share some of the best moments of my life with amazing people that enhanced the experience. I know if I had attempted it alone I would have missed half of the activities that we did and I would of spent much of my time dealing with the hassle of logistics. Fanny will always have a special place in my heart and a special place on my mantle piece (hand-crafted in Tanzania)! Hats off to Oasis. My one and only company of choice now!
As for Africa, where it all began, I could not nearly begin to describe all it has to offer and everything it has taught me. It’s a continent in contradictions and that is the best thing about it. Lucy took her first steps in Ethiopia and the Rwandan gorillas reconfirm my belief in evolution, yet in a tiny hole in the wall pub on the streets of Addis, a religious shrine is burning in the corner unabated by the obnoxiously loud 80’s music and prostitotties drumming about for business. It holds dome of the strongest symbols of faith yet is proud of its prehistoric origins. A continent, though torn and ravaged by its struggle for independence, internal wars, and then corruption of those in power, it holds the strongest sense of community and offers the first hand for friendship. Zimbabwe is still under the brutal regime of Mugabe and yet there I met some of the most helpful and forthcoming people. It is beautiful, with landscapes that make you want to freeze time and is paired with a mosaic of cultures, tribal and modern, to learn from – a very special shout out to the Masaai, Samburu and Ethiopian traditional dressmakers! It boasts beaches, mountains, desert, grassland, rolling hills, oasis’s; something (or everything in my case) for anyone. What I found most difficult to deal with was the lack of opportunity and thus often ambition for the majority of people. They have the work ethic and the stamina; they just need the chance to explore other fields. I never really felt threatened or unwelcome, (except when trying to shop in Sudan and they didn’t accept international cards in stores or at ATMS! WTF!!!) I was just married or engaged to every boy on my tour at some point. I’ve grown from this trip, I’m more aware, more tolerant, more mature (just ask my sister, at the airport I was tagged as the older sibling and that NEVER happens) and I know I’ll be back to do West Africa and revisit some of my favourite spots soon.
But now I guess I should summarize with my best 3 of everything, decided with much difficulty and constant changes. I could most likely have a top 10 of everything but like my photos (soon to finally make their debut) I need to cull them down:
Top 3 animal sightings:
1. Gorillas at Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
2. Mother and baby elephant at the waterhole in Etosha National Park, Namibia
3. Lion feeding at Antelope Park, Zimbabwe
Top 3 activities:
1. 3 day Feluca ride, Aswan, Egypt
2. Rented a car with Jen, Sohette and Rachelle to drive around Zanzibar, Tanzania
3. Skydiving, Swakopmund, Namibia
Top 3 dishes:
1. Vegetable cream bake at bush camp with chipati!
2. Peanut butter thai satay noodle
3. Stuffed green peppers and mash (my group :)
Top 3 nights:
1. Goat Races, Kampala, Uganda
2. Addis Ababa 3 night bonanza, Lalibela pub and brothels galore, didn't get home before 5am most nigths, Ethiopia
3. Shoestrings after the sunset cruise, Vic Falls, Zimbabwe
Top 3 items (still the same):
1. Saks beige cargo pants (so soft and baggy)
2. Serong
3. Hair brush (the truck windows are always open and it creates a wind tunnel!)
Top 3 campsites:
1. N.R.E. Campsite, Jinja, Uganda
2. Bishbishi, Darhab, Egypt
3. Antelope Park, Gweru, Zimbabwe
The hardest and most debated question... favourite country??
ETHIOPIA!
A great combination of culture, people, history, scenic countryside awe, food, nightlife and cool cities.
But an honorable mention to Sudan for the greatest adventure and sense of achievement!
Final words:
Don't forget Africa, I never will!
Bring it on South America... those are some pretty big shoes to fill
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
It's been an action packed few weeks since my last post and we are in our final country of Egypt. Currently I am sitting in my bed at Reizeky campsite in Luxor.
Last we spoke I was in Sudan about to embark on the bush camp bonanza. All I can say for the 5 nights of desert is that I LOVED EVERY MOMENT! We drove through nothingness, following only the railway tracks and the faint trails of fellow overlanders. With nothing but sand at hand it was peaceful, pensive and evoked a sense of adventure and challenge. Us vs the desert. We went to see the Meroe pyramids which were a great introduction to the grandeur of pyramids, withstanding time and preserving hyroglyphics. It was nice to feel so isolated as we were the only tourists there and you can get right up close to the walls, only restricted from literally climbing on the ruins. Over the course of the next few days we got bogged in the sand and had to dig, push and sandmat Fanny out of her ditches. One day we moved 7km in 3 1/2 hours! Even under sweltering heat I wouldn't change a thing. It was the first time we have had to get down on our hands and knees and work to get somewhere. It felt like true overlanding only to be rewarded with crystal skys and perfect night temperatures. As the temperature cooled by mid-afternoon we played international vs. Aussie soccer games and just enjoyed being the only people around for miles. Often I had to walk for what seemed like an endless journey so that I would be a dot on the horizon and could pee in private as a bush was but a distant ethiopian dream. Some bush camps were nicely set up beside mountains that acted as a perfect cover but other nights we were not so lucky. Once we reached Wadi Halfa, to a roaring standing ovation and truck cheering, we boarded the ferry to our last country, Egypt, arriving in the beautiful and scenic city of Aswan.
A stark contrast to Wadi Halfa, which boasts little more than sand and falafel, Aswan felt modern and alive. Our hotel was just by the nile front, with a rooftop pool overlooking the city and the waterfront. Felucas, row boats and moderately sized cruise ships took full advantage of the nile adding an even greater sense of luxury to the already picturesque city. Palm trees, reeds and other oasis-inspired greenery lined the edge of the nile followed directly by endless sand and desert. Though hard to admit, almost the entire truck headed straight to Macdonald's as our first call of action. Though after 4 months of truck food, local delicacies and a stretch of desert (and thus soy mince everything) the first chance to engage in a home comfort and unecessary indulgence was very exciting. The Macdonalds was right on the nile, with a view to die for and a menu far greater than the usual Rideau Street McChicken. I had a double Big Mac McChicken - Emma, I almost shipped you one home. Spike had his birthday in ASwan and requested to have it at Macdonald's as well where they brought out McHamburglar for him and brought him behind the counter for a photo op.
Aswan has the most amazing market. The souk was right behind our hotel and stretched forever. It was colourful, sold an ambundance of everything from jewelery to spices, was covered from the heat of the sun with draping canopies and was not overwhelmingly crowded. Compared to Luxor, you hardly ever got hassled or heckled, an unfortunate staple of the men and markets in this current city. We went to Abu Simbel which I found reasserted my passion for Egyptian history and mythology. Though crowded with tourists, the imposing scale and impossibility of the structure married with the delicate and intricate relief paintings and decoration is extraordinary. As with all the temples and mouments we've seen so far, the detailed and expressive narrative etched into the walls was, for me, the most awe-inspiring historical site we've been to in Africa.
I would most definitely go back to Aswan but as with the nature of the trip we were off to Luxor within a couple days. However for 2 nights we travelled by feluca up the Nile instead of with Fanny and Nev. By far in my top 3 activities so far. Iw was on a boat with Sean, Leah, Sam, Kate, Jess and Simo and we all agreed that sailing on the Nile encompassed all the best qualities of a vacation. It was relaxing, peaceful, fun and directed by nothing other than when we wanted swim or make a toilet break. The setting was breath-taking, the temperature was perfect (it hasn't rained in Aswan for 23 years) and the water was clean and refreshing. The local food provided was delicious and abundant and lounging for 2 days induced coma-like sleeps. The only issue was the mossies that were never seen or heard but magically appeared to bite you. It wasn't bothersome as I could have sworn no bugs existed on the Nile but the bites emerged quite fervently after docking. Still it is something not to be missed. It took us 2 days to go what Fanny did in 3 hours but it was well worth it!
Once we docked we went to see the Komo Omo and Edfu (for the God Horus) temples, both equally grand with their own labyrinths of rooms and columns. Every inch of sandstone or granite is covered in relief depictions or hieroglyphics. Some original colour can still be seen and you can easily imagine the temples in all their splendor during the Pharonic dynasties. Since entering Luxor I have seen, the Valley of the Kings, 4 tombs in total including King Tut as well as the Valley of the Workers and the chief builders tomb. Here the colour has been preserved to the point where it could have been done yesterday. The various styles change according to the Paraoh's preference. Tutmosis III was a warrior Pharaoh and thus he decided to build the deepest tomb and did not bother himself with detailed, painstaking relief images. Instead his tomb is adorned with stick figures and basic paintings whereas Rameses III took full advantage of larger than life depictions of the gods and his passage into his second life, with deep reliefs and detailed designs. It was in his tomb where I found the garments to be the most clearly defined. Even sheer cloth with pleats, scaled linen and embellished headresses and jewlery are recorded with the utmost care. I really admire the Egyptians for their attention to even the smallest minutia so that nothing would get lost or obstruct their storytelling. We also visited Karnak, the temple of Amun-Re (and his wife and son) and the Luxor Temple. Karnak's hall of columns is one of the most spectacular sights I've ever seen. Each deserve a trip but Karnak is not to be missed. It is the second largest sandstone compound and just has chamber after chamber of history, each built upon further and further by succeding Pharohs. Disputes between Pharaohs are even written within the walls as newer Pharaohs would chisel out the faces of their prior kings and queens. Sadly a lot of reliefs throughout all the temples have been decimated by various religious groups, robbers and nature's elements but I was amazed at the amount that has survived over 3000 years.
We still have the Great Pyramids of Giza to go and I already feel a great affection towards Egypt. Unfortunately it has not settled so well with other members of the group, but I am lucky as I am easily mistaken for Egyptian and am not subjected so intensly to the harrasment a lot of the crew have found. A lot of people are genuinely friendly but on an overall evaluation of the trip, these are certainly the sleeziest and most grating people we have encountered. Though not a new phenomenon, men dominate the streets armed with demanding and inappropriate lines and a grab here and there is not uncommon. I walked around the city center on my own and did not feel unsafe but even with a scarf and a long maxi dress, unwanted attention is inevitable.
With just over a week left of the trip, the finish line is in sight - both stirring up sadness for one continent and excitment for the next!
Last we spoke I was in Sudan about to embark on the bush camp bonanza. All I can say for the 5 nights of desert is that I LOVED EVERY MOMENT! We drove through nothingness, following only the railway tracks and the faint trails of fellow overlanders. With nothing but sand at hand it was peaceful, pensive and evoked a sense of adventure and challenge. Us vs the desert. We went to see the Meroe pyramids which were a great introduction to the grandeur of pyramids, withstanding time and preserving hyroglyphics. It was nice to feel so isolated as we were the only tourists there and you can get right up close to the walls, only restricted from literally climbing on the ruins. Over the course of the next few days we got bogged in the sand and had to dig, push and sandmat Fanny out of her ditches. One day we moved 7km in 3 1/2 hours! Even under sweltering heat I wouldn't change a thing. It was the first time we have had to get down on our hands and knees and work to get somewhere. It felt like true overlanding only to be rewarded with crystal skys and perfect night temperatures. As the temperature cooled by mid-afternoon we played international vs. Aussie soccer games and just enjoyed being the only people around for miles. Often I had to walk for what seemed like an endless journey so that I would be a dot on the horizon and could pee in private as a bush was but a distant ethiopian dream. Some bush camps were nicely set up beside mountains that acted as a perfect cover but other nights we were not so lucky. Once we reached Wadi Halfa, to a roaring standing ovation and truck cheering, we boarded the ferry to our last country, Egypt, arriving in the beautiful and scenic city of Aswan.
A stark contrast to Wadi Halfa, which boasts little more than sand and falafel, Aswan felt modern and alive. Our hotel was just by the nile front, with a rooftop pool overlooking the city and the waterfront. Felucas, row boats and moderately sized cruise ships took full advantage of the nile adding an even greater sense of luxury to the already picturesque city. Palm trees, reeds and other oasis-inspired greenery lined the edge of the nile followed directly by endless sand and desert. Though hard to admit, almost the entire truck headed straight to Macdonald's as our first call of action. Though after 4 months of truck food, local delicacies and a stretch of desert (and thus soy mince everything) the first chance to engage in a home comfort and unecessary indulgence was very exciting. The Macdonalds was right on the nile, with a view to die for and a menu far greater than the usual Rideau Street McChicken. I had a double Big Mac McChicken - Emma, I almost shipped you one home. Spike had his birthday in ASwan and requested to have it at Macdonald's as well where they brought out McHamburglar for him and brought him behind the counter for a photo op.
Aswan has the most amazing market. The souk was right behind our hotel and stretched forever. It was colourful, sold an ambundance of everything from jewelery to spices, was covered from the heat of the sun with draping canopies and was not overwhelmingly crowded. Compared to Luxor, you hardly ever got hassled or heckled, an unfortunate staple of the men and markets in this current city. We went to Abu Simbel which I found reasserted my passion for Egyptian history and mythology. Though crowded with tourists, the imposing scale and impossibility of the structure married with the delicate and intricate relief paintings and decoration is extraordinary. As with all the temples and mouments we've seen so far, the detailed and expressive narrative etched into the walls was, for me, the most awe-inspiring historical site we've been to in Africa.
I would most definitely go back to Aswan but as with the nature of the trip we were off to Luxor within a couple days. However for 2 nights we travelled by feluca up the Nile instead of with Fanny and Nev. By far in my top 3 activities so far. Iw was on a boat with Sean, Leah, Sam, Kate, Jess and Simo and we all agreed that sailing on the Nile encompassed all the best qualities of a vacation. It was relaxing, peaceful, fun and directed by nothing other than when we wanted swim or make a toilet break. The setting was breath-taking, the temperature was perfect (it hasn't rained in Aswan for 23 years) and the water was clean and refreshing. The local food provided was delicious and abundant and lounging for 2 days induced coma-like sleeps. The only issue was the mossies that were never seen or heard but magically appeared to bite you. It wasn't bothersome as I could have sworn no bugs existed on the Nile but the bites emerged quite fervently after docking. Still it is something not to be missed. It took us 2 days to go what Fanny did in 3 hours but it was well worth it!
Once we docked we went to see the Komo Omo and Edfu (for the God Horus) temples, both equally grand with their own labyrinths of rooms and columns. Every inch of sandstone or granite is covered in relief depictions or hieroglyphics. Some original colour can still be seen and you can easily imagine the temples in all their splendor during the Pharonic dynasties. Since entering Luxor I have seen, the Valley of the Kings, 4 tombs in total including King Tut as well as the Valley of the Workers and the chief builders tomb. Here the colour has been preserved to the point where it could have been done yesterday. The various styles change according to the Paraoh's preference. Tutmosis III was a warrior Pharaoh and thus he decided to build the deepest tomb and did not bother himself with detailed, painstaking relief images. Instead his tomb is adorned with stick figures and basic paintings whereas Rameses III took full advantage of larger than life depictions of the gods and his passage into his second life, with deep reliefs and detailed designs. It was in his tomb where I found the garments to be the most clearly defined. Even sheer cloth with pleats, scaled linen and embellished headresses and jewlery are recorded with the utmost care. I really admire the Egyptians for their attention to even the smallest minutia so that nothing would get lost or obstruct their storytelling. We also visited Karnak, the temple of Amun-Re (and his wife and son) and the Luxor Temple. Karnak's hall of columns is one of the most spectacular sights I've ever seen. Each deserve a trip but Karnak is not to be missed. It is the second largest sandstone compound and just has chamber after chamber of history, each built upon further and further by succeding Pharohs. Disputes between Pharaohs are even written within the walls as newer Pharaohs would chisel out the faces of their prior kings and queens. Sadly a lot of reliefs throughout all the temples have been decimated by various religious groups, robbers and nature's elements but I was amazed at the amount that has survived over 3000 years.
We still have the Great Pyramids of Giza to go and I already feel a great affection towards Egypt. Unfortunately it has not settled so well with other members of the group, but I am lucky as I am easily mistaken for Egyptian and am not subjected so intensly to the harrasment a lot of the crew have found. A lot of people are genuinely friendly but on an overall evaluation of the trip, these are certainly the sleeziest and most grating people we have encountered. Though not a new phenomenon, men dominate the streets armed with demanding and inappropriate lines and a grab here and there is not uncommon. I walked around the city center on my own and did not feel unsafe but even with a scarf and a long maxi dress, unwanted attention is inevitable.
With just over a week left of the trip, the finish line is in sight - both stirring up sadness for one continent and excitment for the next!
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