It's been an action packed few weeks since my last post and we are in our final country of Egypt. Currently I am sitting in my bed at Reizeky campsite in Luxor.

Last we spoke I was in Sudan about to embark on the bush camp bonanza. All I can say for the 5 nights of desert is that I LOVED EVERY MOMENT! We drove through nothingness, following only the railway tracks and the faint trails of fellow overlanders. With nothing but sand at hand it was peaceful, pensive and evoked a sense of adventure and challenge. Us vs the desert. We went to see the Meroe pyramids which were a great introduction to the grandeur of pyramids, withstanding time and preserving hyroglyphics. It was nice to feel so isolated as we were the only tourists there and you can get right up close to the walls, only restricted from literally climbing on the ruins. Over the course of the next few days we got bogged in the sand and had to dig, push and sandmat Fanny out of her ditches. One day we moved 7km in 3 1/2 hours! Even under sweltering heat I wouldn't change a thing. It was the first time we have had to get down on our hands and knees and work to get somewhere. It felt like true overlanding only to be rewarded with crystal skys and perfect night temperatures. As the temperature cooled by mid-afternoon we played international vs. Aussie soccer games and just enjoyed being the only people around for miles. Often I had to walk for what seemed like an endless journey so that I would be a dot on the horizon and could pee in private as a bush was but a distant ethiopian dream. Some bush camps were nicely set up beside mountains that acted as a perfect cover but other nights we were not so lucky. Once we reached Wadi Halfa, to a roaring standing ovation and truck cheering, we boarded the ferry to our last country, Egypt, arriving in the beautiful and scenic city of Aswan.

A stark contrast to Wadi Halfa, which boasts little more than sand and falafel, Aswan felt modern and alive. Our hotel was just by the nile front, with a rooftop pool overlooking the city and the waterfront. Felucas, row boats and moderately sized cruise ships took full advantage of the nile adding an even greater sense of luxury to the already picturesque city. Palm trees, reeds and other oasis-inspired greenery lined the edge of the nile followed directly by endless sand and desert. Though hard to admit, almost the entire truck headed straight to Macdonald's as our first call of action. Though after 4 months of truck food, local delicacies and a stretch of desert (and thus soy mince everything) the first chance to engage in a home comfort and unecessary indulgence was very exciting. The Macdonalds was right on the nile, with a view to die for and a menu far greater than the usual Rideau Street McChicken. I had a double Big Mac McChicken - Emma, I almost shipped you one home. Spike had his birthday in ASwan and requested to have it at Macdonald's as well where they brought out McHamburglar for him and brought him behind the counter for a photo op.

Aswan has the most amazing market. The souk was right behind our hotel and stretched forever. It was colourful, sold an ambundance of everything from jewelery to spices, was covered from the heat of the sun with draping canopies and was not overwhelmingly crowded. Compared to Luxor, you hardly ever got hassled or heckled, an unfortunate staple of the men and markets in this current city. We went to Abu Simbel which I found reasserted my passion for Egyptian history and mythology. Though crowded with tourists, the imposing scale and impossibility of the structure married with the delicate and intricate relief paintings and decoration is extraordinary. As with all the temples and mouments we've seen so far, the detailed and expressive narrative etched into the walls was, for me, the most awe-inspiring historical site we've been to in Africa.

I would most definitely go back to Aswan but as with the nature of the trip we were off to Luxor within a couple days. However for 2 nights we travelled by feluca up the Nile instead of with Fanny and Nev. By far in my top 3 activities so far. Iw was on a boat with Sean, Leah, Sam, Kate, Jess and Simo and we all agreed that sailing on the Nile encompassed all the best qualities of a vacation. It was relaxing, peaceful, fun and directed by nothing other than when we wanted swim or make a toilet break. The setting was breath-taking, the temperature was perfect (it hasn't rained in Aswan for 23 years) and the water was clean and refreshing. The local food provided was delicious and abundant and lounging for 2 days induced coma-like sleeps. The only issue was the mossies that were never seen or heard but magically appeared to bite you. It wasn't bothersome as I could have sworn no bugs existed on the Nile but the bites emerged quite fervently after docking. Still it is something not to be missed. It took us 2 days to go what Fanny did in 3 hours but it was well worth it!

Once we docked we went to see the Komo Omo and Edfu (for the God Horus) temples, both equally grand with their own labyrinths of rooms and columns. Every inch of sandstone or granite is covered in relief depictions or hieroglyphics. Some original colour can still be seen and you can easily imagine the temples in all their splendor during the Pharonic dynasties. Since entering Luxor I have seen, the Valley of the Kings, 4 tombs in total including King Tut as well as the Valley of the Workers and the chief builders tomb. Here the colour has been preserved to the point where it could have been done yesterday. The various styles change according to the Paraoh's preference. Tutmosis III was a warrior Pharaoh and thus he decided to build the deepest tomb and did not bother himself with detailed, painstaking relief images. Instead his tomb is adorned with stick figures and basic paintings whereas Rameses III took full advantage of larger than life depictions of the gods and his passage into his second life, with deep reliefs and detailed designs. It was in his tomb where I found the garments to be the most clearly defined. Even sheer cloth with pleats, scaled linen and embellished headresses and jewlery are recorded with the utmost care. I really admire the Egyptians for their attention to even the smallest minutia so that nothing would get lost or obstruct their storytelling. We also visited Karnak, the temple of Amun-Re (and his wife and son) and the Luxor Temple. Karnak's hall of columns is one of the most spectacular sights I've ever seen. Each deserve a trip but Karnak is not to be missed. It is the second largest sandstone compound and just has chamber after chamber of history, each built upon further and further by succeding Pharohs. Disputes between Pharaohs are even written within the walls as newer Pharaohs would chisel out the faces of their prior kings and queens. Sadly a lot of reliefs throughout all the temples have been decimated by various religious groups, robbers and nature's elements but I was amazed at the amount that has survived over 3000 years.

We still have the Great Pyramids of Giza to go and I already feel a great affection towards Egypt. Unfortunately it has not settled so well with other members of the group, but I am lucky as I am easily mistaken for Egyptian and am not subjected so intensly to the harrasment a lot of the crew have found. A lot of people are genuinely friendly but on an overall evaluation of the trip, these are certainly the sleeziest and most grating people we have encountered. Though not a new phenomenon, men dominate the streets armed with demanding and inappropriate lines and a grab here and there is not uncommon. I walked around the city center on my own and did not feel unsafe but even with a scarf and a long maxi dress, unwanted attention is inevitable.

With just over a week left of the trip, the finish line is in sight - both stirring up sadness for one continent and excitment for the next!

Sudan is HOT! very hot! I have never sweat this much and I do not shy away from heat. With everything covered its a welcome relief to be sitting here in my hotel upgrade under the cool breeze of air con!

Our first bush camp in Sudan, although hot, was great because we got to sleep without the tent cover, under the stars, on a soft ground. I sat on the roof of Fanny under the night sky and wrote in my journal, read a little and relaxed after a full day of driving. We had grilled fish fillets and potato slices for dinner which was the icing on the cake.

Since entering Khartoum, wholesome fun has been had by all! Alcohol is illegal in Sudan so our nights out have consisted of bowling, mini theme parks and live music at Papa Costa which has amazing food. We went twice today. Amazing pizzas, good shish kebabs and a delicious stuffed veal! Today we went to the Omdurman Souq, the largest souq in Khartoum. It was similar to the Merkato market in Addis with endless streets of everything and anything. It was quite the maze to navigate but the fabric/clothing section was well stocked and the jewelery area was another key destination for myself and Sohette. However, with great will power, I left with just a scarf and Sohette bought herself a muumuu. In this heat it is very tempting but I saved the extra dollars for another juice. Did I mention Khartoum has had the best juices so far in Africa, especially guava. He has even surpassed Mr. Juiceman in Zanzibar, a title I thought would be his forever.

A quick falafel in the morning and then its off to our bush camp marathon!

Hello!

It's my last day in Ethiopia and I'm currently in Gondar. We went to an amazing castle today, built in the 17th century by King Alem-Seghede Fasil. Stunning ruins with phallic shaped supports, a running Ethiopian theme, as Axum stelae are also based on the male genitilia as all our guides point out. We've now seen, Lalibela, Axum, Queen Sheba's pool and residence as well as the Simien Mountians. Over 3000 years of history in a matter of weeks, though you could count Lucy in Addis and go back a few million. Luckily I also gained 7 years back and am 15 again, as according to the Ethiopian calendar its January, 2003! Back to my carefree youth. The local story behind the difference between calendars is that one of the wise men was Ethiopian and after bestowing his gift to Jesus it took him 7 years to return to Ethiopia from Jerusalem.

Of everything we've seen in Ethiopia, Lalibela has been my favourite. The monolithic, semi-monolithic and cave churches were unbelievable. They are a series of large churches chiseled out of hard rock, yet they are smooth and precise. According to the locals King Lalibela must have had help from god as there is no human way it could have been done in the 23 years as claimed. We saw 11 churches, all equally beautiful, some with fresco walls and elaborate windows. St. Mary's church is the most beautiful on the inside but my favourite church is St. George, which is the last church built and drops 40 feet into the earth. You can really see the grandeur of its size and cross shape from above and when you walk down into the grounds it has the most clean cut and precise angles. The architecture and detail is amazing and when you think of how it has been excavated out of rock, it seems like an impossible feat.

Axum was a set of great stelae ranging back to 300AD that mark the reign of kings during the Aksumite kingdom. There are 3 soaring obelisks, one that has fallen down and 2 that are standing. They predate the conversion to Christianity and were used to mark tombs. They are made of solid granite and are the pinnacle of the town. It was not as physically impressive as I thought it would be but it did feel quite grounding to be surrounded by something thats tested the ages and has such far-reaching roots.

The Simien Mountains were gorgeous and Ethiopia has now replaced Rwanda for favourtie scenery and landscape. Driving through the mountains (even if for 14 hours) was breath-taking, literally at some altitudes, with lush sights, cascading waterfalls and sheer drops. We were away from the truck as Fanny can't navigate the windy roads, but even in our little mini-bus we had a grad total of 5 busted tires. I am unfortunately without an ipod at the moment and if you ever do a trip like mine then music is an ESSENTIAL!! The views are spectacular but set to epic music (thanks to Jess and Nev) it makes it almost surreal, like you're cast in a great adventure movie. The drives were also a great way to see the locals in traditional dress called 'yehager Lebese' made of natural hand-woven cotton. Here they wear big, baggy dresses, generally beige or cream coloured with woven colourful designs down the front and around the v-neckline, then belted with a colourful scarf of the same woven pattern. I tried one on in Addis and could not pull it off, but on the women here it looks amazing. Hair in Ethipoia is also stunning. It is tightly braided with an afro skirting with an additional braid (or multiple) that form a tiara around the forehead. I had the tiara braid done in Ethiopia and loved it though it wasn't the easiest to wash.

Ethiopia is a country that cannot be missed if you ever come to Africa! Tomorrow we enter into Sudan and bush camp for a day on our way to Khartoum. Then 4 or 5 bush camps in a row again through the sweltering sun before we hit another town. Back to the desert!

Teanastellen! (Hello in Amharic)

I'm currently in Addis, Ethiopia where we have spent the past 5 days. It's been a lot of drive days to get here but it has been worth it as they go in some of my top nights of the trip.

After Uganda we hit Kenya once again to stay in Nakuru where we went to Nakuru National Park and saw the trip's elusive black and white rhinos. Sohette and I upgraded to an awesome cottage with a conservatory and a gigantic bed and our own bath. The epitome of luxury on our trip and we thought it would be a nice treat for us as the next 4 nights as we drove through Northern Kenya to Ethiopia would be spent bush camping. The bush camps were a nice break though from the campsite scene where a bar is always available and facilities are (generally if daring enough) at your fingertips. A great chance to take in the vast landscapes, play some wholesome games and slow the pace down a little. One night we had a tent fiasco as we were in a barren area with no protection from the wind, so gale force blows would crush the sides of the tent, even with us flailing and pushing from the inside. No sleep that night but an experience to be remembered. Throughout Northern Kenya we came across another tribe similar to the Maasai called Samburu. They also were the most fantastic beaded necklaces, slightly different to the Maasai as instead of giant flat neck pieces they have a series of beaded rings around their neck that they get given as objects of admiration as they grow up, that eventually form these huge, cascading, colourful necklaces. They can be spotted a mile away across the desert.

We finally arrived into Ethiopia relaxed but dirty and drove to our hotel, described as "skanky" in the lonely planet. The brothel might have given it away but in actual fact it was a great place to stay as it was central and we had beds, a hot shower and clean bathrooms (at least in our upgrade). Ethiopia is another stunning country for clothing. The women are draped in bright, bold scarfs and fabrics, paired with beaded necklaces and silver trinkets. The drive through the city was unbelievable as we arrived on a religious holiday, Meskel (Finding of the True Cross), which is also about a week after their New Year. The streets were packed with people to the point where they weaved in and out of the traffic because the sidewalks were too full. It was an amazing sight as we arrived in the evening and everyone was holding candles, dancing and huge bonfires called Dameras were being lit in the streets. Flowers and grass covered almost every inch of ground. I felt bad for our driver, Nev, who had to navigate through the sea of people but from the back it was the best time for us to have arrived. That night we went out on the town to celebrate with the locals and didn't get home until early morning. The next few nights have followed suit as I have had no more than 2-3 hours of sleep but we have taken full advantage of the towns nightlife. During the day I have been to the National Museum where I met Lucy, the 3.2 million year old, 40% complete, 1st humanoid skeleton to be found in Ethiopia. She's quite stunning and I can see why she attracts so much attention. We also hit the silver markets and the giant Mercato market where if you can't find it, it doesn't exist. I have bought some more awesome jewelery and a full store load of baby wipes for the next set of bush camps. While here I have tasted the local cuisine. Mainly enjira, a type of bread that looks and feels like a bath mat and isn't quite to my liking (as I would describe it's taste like... wet towel - a bit sour with a hint of soggy cloth) but I would definitely recommend everyone to try it as most of my friends actually really like it and prefer it to bread. Not to mention the sauces that come with it are out of this world delicious. I also tried Fatira which is eaten at breakfast and is kind of like fried chipati with egg and honey wrapped inside. It is amazing! Funnily enough I have also had the best Italian here as well so stop by this restaurant called Castelli if you are ever here!

We are now off the spend the next week and a bit exploring Lalibella, Axum and the Simien Mountains. I have read that they are all going to be spectacular so I'm anxious to hit the road again.