Ola! I am now in Banos, Ecuador!
How to describe the past week. I´ve done so many things already it feels like the trip couldn´t have just started. I met my group. There are 18 of us, mostly British though we have someone from Holland, Spain and a few from Australia. Once again I´m the only Canadian. We have only 1 couple and a pretty even number of guys to girls. They are all pretty cool, easy to talk to and up for most things. Most have done this with Oasis or another company before so we´re all a bit more expreienced with this kind of travel. Our truck is called Felicity and she is very different to Fanny and to be honest will take a bit of getting used to. She has windows, no beach, s.e.a.t.b.e.l.t.s., and is a bit smaller in general, but especially for storage!! Nonetheless she still has seats facing in and then another section with forward facing seats and with windows, its much easier to hear and listen to music in the back.
I´ll be travelling with Christy (Tour leader) and Benny (driver) as well as Cade for the first month (tour leader in training) and Felicity (the truck). Then my fellow passengers are Charlie, Rusty, John, Dan, Dave, Keith, Kelly and Rob (out only couple), Hannah, Claire, Sarah, Sarah C, Emma (tent buddy), Cara, Marjion and Tasha. We were also supposed to get an Aussie traveller but he never made it.
I´ve been in Ecuador since we started on the 19th. We went to Otavalo, where they have the largest market on Saturdays. The streets turn into a labyrinth of market stalls reaching in all directions from this main center square. I had already been with the family before I started so I decided to walk around but luckily restrained from buying anything.
We then moved on to the Amazon, where we spent 3 days in Arajuno Lodge up the river. We trekked into the jungle, tubed down the river and visited an animal rescue center, Amazoonica. All amazing! You are just constantly surrounded by the lushious green jungle with those typical soothing bird sounds that you get on yoga CDs that you think don´t really exist, but I can tell you, they do. I sat up late in a hammock one evening and it was a perfect night. They also have a monkey named Mona who lives at the lodge and though is still wild, she is also like a family pet and always hangs around, playing with people and stealing whatever she can get her hands on. She provided hours of entertainment!
Then from there we drove on to Banos where I am now. We set up our tents for the first time, the same ones we used in Africa, and had our first truck cook group dinners! We ate chicken fajitas the first night and had lasagna last night. It looks like we will be feasting on this trip. I thought we ate well in Africa but those were 2 things we never had there, and they are our first 2 dishes! Yesterday I had an adrenaline filled day of canyonning and jumping off a small bridge before hitting the hot springs and partying hard for our first truck birthday. I have never been canyonning before and its actually quite scary. You jump off cliffs into small but deep pools, the highest was 5 meters and I was shaking a little when I jumped as its not so much the height rather than the fact you have to jump in a certain area or else bad things will happen. You also absail down cliffs and waterfalls and generally trek through the canyons. It was incredibly fun and a great way to see waterfalls up close as Banos is know for its waterfalls. Banos is a great little town, colourful and secluded, surrounded by massive mountains and waterfalls. Just watch out for the sandflies. I have been mauled by every bug alive, especially in the Amazon and my ankles don´t quite look human.
Today we´re off to our first bush camp, then on to the beach to get my tan back, which peeled off entirely after the Galapagos!
Friday, November 26, 2010
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
A week in the galapagos is like living in a live action wildlife documentary! It was amazing. We did an island every day and saw every animal on the list. I swam with turtles, sharks and sea lions. We saw penguins, flamingos, fur seals (still technially a sea lion though), giant tortoises (literally 200 years old - some probably met Darwin himself), land iguanas, marine iguanas (by the hundreds on top of each other) and the entire bird population. Each island has its own species so each day we would see something new. To be honest the scenery paled in comparison to what I had just witnessed in Africa but the proximity of the animals and their care-free, tame nature is incredible.
My best experience is when I snorkeled with the sea lions. They come so close to you it looks like they´re going to kiss you then they swerve around at the last moment and play a game similar to tag. They´ll swim up to your face then speed away, twirling and looping around you. The ease with which they swim is incredible, its like they are constantly dancing and the water offers no resistance. It is right up there with my Gorilla trekking experience.
The cruise ship we were on, the Celebrity Expedition, was superb. The service, food and naturalists were great. It was a relaxing atmosphere, no formal nights or massive stage shows. Just a small boat of 90 people. We would take zodiacs into the island as the ship could not pull into any ports and most were beach landings or dry landings onto natural rock. We would go on a walk in the morning and then again in the afternoon, with the option to snorkel whenever possible. The great thing about the Galapagos is that it is so well preserved and they are taking every effort to keep it from getting damaged and to save its wildlife from extinction. When the first people settled on the islands they used to kill the tortoises for food or keep them as pets and it almost destroyed their existence. There is only one saddle-back tortoise from Pinta island left and his name is Lonesome George as he has no one to mate with to rebuild his species.
It was a great week to detox from the fast-paced 4 months I had just gone through and to prepare me for the next 4 months in South America.
I meet my tour on Thursday, which I am very excited and partly nervous about. Another new group on a new truck in a new continent. I´m hoping I´m as lucky as I was in Africa!
My best experience is when I snorkeled with the sea lions. They come so close to you it looks like they´re going to kiss you then they swerve around at the last moment and play a game similar to tag. They´ll swim up to your face then speed away, twirling and looping around you. The ease with which they swim is incredible, its like they are constantly dancing and the water offers no resistance. It is right up there with my Gorilla trekking experience.
The cruise ship we were on, the Celebrity Expedition, was superb. The service, food and naturalists were great. It was a relaxing atmosphere, no formal nights or massive stage shows. Just a small boat of 90 people. We would take zodiacs into the island as the ship could not pull into any ports and most were beach landings or dry landings onto natural rock. We would go on a walk in the morning and then again in the afternoon, with the option to snorkel whenever possible. The great thing about the Galapagos is that it is so well preserved and they are taking every effort to keep it from getting damaged and to save its wildlife from extinction. When the first people settled on the islands they used to kill the tortoises for food or keep them as pets and it almost destroyed their existence. There is only one saddle-back tortoise from Pinta island left and his name is Lonesome George as he has no one to mate with to rebuild his species.
It was a great week to detox from the fast-paced 4 months I had just gone through and to prepare me for the next 4 months in South America.
I meet my tour on Thursday, which I am very excited and partly nervous about. Another new group on a new truck in a new continent. I´m hoping I´m as lucky as I was in Africa!
Saturday, November 6, 2010
I'm currently writing this from my hotel room in the Marriot in Quito, Ecuador (and paying for it at an extortionate price! Kudos to all the African hotels and campsites, that although had broken toilets and cold showers, offered FREE internet!)
How to sum up the end?! In 2 days I've crossed 3 continents going from Cairo to London to Houston to Quito! After spending the final few days in Cairo, taking in the grandeur of the pyramids and soaking in the last moments with my friends, we've come to the end and it is a strange feeling. I have an overwhelming want to continue with the group but the trip has ignited further excitement for the South America leg. Group dynamics have changed for better and worse, and after 4 months all cards are laid on the table. I've had my share of tension on this trip, but the brilliant thing about it is that where you are and what you're doing eventually prevails and you realise that despite trivial group quarrels, I am extremely lucky to be where I am and have met the people that I care about deeply now. My tent buddies have been the most amazing companions and I wouldn't have dreamed to have gotten as close to them as I did, as well as many other passengers that I almost can't imagine not seeing everyday. I have a list of people that I must see again, and have already set up a road trip across Canada with Jen and a road trip across Aus to see Jess and Simo at Christmas, followed by Kate and Sam. A hot Christmas – I can’t imagine, but Jess will show me the ropes! A trip to Japan to see Leah and Sean and experience real karaoke, meeting up with Colin in Bolivia and Felipe in Brazil, hopefully Rio while on this next leg. I have to go back to Cape Town to stay with Sohette and see everything I missed at the rushed start of the trip, while Rachelle and I are doing Mt. Kili and the rest of the world together and Thorbjorn has to call upon his slave for a day winnings either in Norway, England or Canada. Kirsti and Spike are a mere 8 hours or so away from my new abode in London, inches in compared to the great miles we crossed and so regular trips will be made. Carol and I have pinky promised to do a long weekend in Sharm el Sheikh and I'm dropping by the Middle East to reassure Nev that his hat is in good hands! It's 100% gouda cheese but bonds were forged on this trip that will last a lifetime.
As for the overlanding experience... it was amazing and I would recommend it to all. I'm now a fervent chef and can set up a tent in record time. I can do my business anywhere, just find me the nearest bush or if not available, what the hell, just turn around. It was exciting, challenging and exhilarating! I'm itching to get back on the second truck and do the South America portion and that is coming from a 5 star cruise ship in the Galapagos. It's a great way to meet people that also have the travel bug. I was never lonely and I got to share some of the best moments of my life with amazing people that enhanced the experience. I know if I had attempted it alone I would have missed half of the activities that we did and I would of spent much of my time dealing with the hassle of logistics. Fanny will always have a special place in my heart and a special place on my mantle piece (hand-crafted in Tanzania)! Hats off to Oasis. My one and only company of choice now!
As for Africa, where it all began, I could not nearly begin to describe all it has to offer and everything it has taught me. It’s a continent in contradictions and that is the best thing about it. Lucy took her first steps in Ethiopia and the Rwandan gorillas reconfirm my belief in evolution, yet in a tiny hole in the wall pub on the streets of Addis, a religious shrine is burning in the corner unabated by the obnoxiously loud 80’s music and prostitotties drumming about for business. It holds dome of the strongest symbols of faith yet is proud of its prehistoric origins. A continent, though torn and ravaged by its struggle for independence, internal wars, and then corruption of those in power, it holds the strongest sense of community and offers the first hand for friendship. Zimbabwe is still under the brutal regime of Mugabe and yet there I met some of the most helpful and forthcoming people. It is beautiful, with landscapes that make you want to freeze time and is paired with a mosaic of cultures, tribal and modern, to learn from – a very special shout out to the Masaai, Samburu and Ethiopian traditional dressmakers! It boasts beaches, mountains, desert, grassland, rolling hills, oasis’s; something (or everything in my case) for anyone. What I found most difficult to deal with was the lack of opportunity and thus often ambition for the majority of people. They have the work ethic and the stamina; they just need the chance to explore other fields. I never really felt threatened or unwelcome, (except when trying to shop in Sudan and they didn’t accept international cards in stores or at ATMS! WTF!!!) I was just married or engaged to every boy on my tour at some point. I’ve grown from this trip, I’m more aware, more tolerant, more mature (just ask my sister, at the airport I was tagged as the older sibling and that NEVER happens) and I know I’ll be back to do West Africa and revisit some of my favourite spots soon.
But now I guess I should summarize with my best 3 of everything, decided with much difficulty and constant changes. I could most likely have a top 10 of everything but like my photos (soon to finally make their debut) I need to cull them down:
Top 3 animal sightings:
1. Gorillas at Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
2. Mother and baby elephant at the waterhole in Etosha National Park, Namibia
3. Lion feeding at Antelope Park, Zimbabwe
Top 3 activities:
1. 3 day Feluca ride, Aswan, Egypt
2. Rented a car with Jen, Sohette and Rachelle to drive around Zanzibar, Tanzania
3. Skydiving, Swakopmund, Namibia
Top 3 dishes:
1. Vegetable cream bake at bush camp with chipati!
2. Peanut butter thai satay noodle
3. Stuffed green peppers and mash (my group :)
Top 3 nights:
1. Goat Races, Kampala, Uganda
2. Addis Ababa 3 night bonanza, Lalibela pub and brothels galore, didn't get home before 5am most nigths, Ethiopia
3. Shoestrings after the sunset cruise, Vic Falls, Zimbabwe
Top 3 items (still the same):
1. Saks beige cargo pants (so soft and baggy)
2. Serong
3. Hair brush (the truck windows are always open and it creates a wind tunnel!)
Top 3 campsites:
1. N.R.E. Campsite, Jinja, Uganda
2. Bishbishi, Darhab, Egypt
3. Antelope Park, Gweru, Zimbabwe
The hardest and most debated question... favourite country??
ETHIOPIA!
A great combination of culture, people, history, scenic countryside awe, food, nightlife and cool cities.
But an honorable mention to Sudan for the greatest adventure and sense of achievement!
Final words:
Don't forget Africa, I never will!
Bring it on South America... those are some pretty big shoes to fill
How to sum up the end?! In 2 days I've crossed 3 continents going from Cairo to London to Houston to Quito! After spending the final few days in Cairo, taking in the grandeur of the pyramids and soaking in the last moments with my friends, we've come to the end and it is a strange feeling. I have an overwhelming want to continue with the group but the trip has ignited further excitement for the South America leg. Group dynamics have changed for better and worse, and after 4 months all cards are laid on the table. I've had my share of tension on this trip, but the brilliant thing about it is that where you are and what you're doing eventually prevails and you realise that despite trivial group quarrels, I am extremely lucky to be where I am and have met the people that I care about deeply now. My tent buddies have been the most amazing companions and I wouldn't have dreamed to have gotten as close to them as I did, as well as many other passengers that I almost can't imagine not seeing everyday. I have a list of people that I must see again, and have already set up a road trip across Canada with Jen and a road trip across Aus to see Jess and Simo at Christmas, followed by Kate and Sam. A hot Christmas – I can’t imagine, but Jess will show me the ropes! A trip to Japan to see Leah and Sean and experience real karaoke, meeting up with Colin in Bolivia and Felipe in Brazil, hopefully Rio while on this next leg. I have to go back to Cape Town to stay with Sohette and see everything I missed at the rushed start of the trip, while Rachelle and I are doing Mt. Kili and the rest of the world together and Thorbjorn has to call upon his slave for a day winnings either in Norway, England or Canada. Kirsti and Spike are a mere 8 hours or so away from my new abode in London, inches in compared to the great miles we crossed and so regular trips will be made. Carol and I have pinky promised to do a long weekend in Sharm el Sheikh and I'm dropping by the Middle East to reassure Nev that his hat is in good hands! It's 100% gouda cheese but bonds were forged on this trip that will last a lifetime.
As for the overlanding experience... it was amazing and I would recommend it to all. I'm now a fervent chef and can set up a tent in record time. I can do my business anywhere, just find me the nearest bush or if not available, what the hell, just turn around. It was exciting, challenging and exhilarating! I'm itching to get back on the second truck and do the South America portion and that is coming from a 5 star cruise ship in the Galapagos. It's a great way to meet people that also have the travel bug. I was never lonely and I got to share some of the best moments of my life with amazing people that enhanced the experience. I know if I had attempted it alone I would have missed half of the activities that we did and I would of spent much of my time dealing with the hassle of logistics. Fanny will always have a special place in my heart and a special place on my mantle piece (hand-crafted in Tanzania)! Hats off to Oasis. My one and only company of choice now!
As for Africa, where it all began, I could not nearly begin to describe all it has to offer and everything it has taught me. It’s a continent in contradictions and that is the best thing about it. Lucy took her first steps in Ethiopia and the Rwandan gorillas reconfirm my belief in evolution, yet in a tiny hole in the wall pub on the streets of Addis, a religious shrine is burning in the corner unabated by the obnoxiously loud 80’s music and prostitotties drumming about for business. It holds dome of the strongest symbols of faith yet is proud of its prehistoric origins. A continent, though torn and ravaged by its struggle for independence, internal wars, and then corruption of those in power, it holds the strongest sense of community and offers the first hand for friendship. Zimbabwe is still under the brutal regime of Mugabe and yet there I met some of the most helpful and forthcoming people. It is beautiful, with landscapes that make you want to freeze time and is paired with a mosaic of cultures, tribal and modern, to learn from – a very special shout out to the Masaai, Samburu and Ethiopian traditional dressmakers! It boasts beaches, mountains, desert, grassland, rolling hills, oasis’s; something (or everything in my case) for anyone. What I found most difficult to deal with was the lack of opportunity and thus often ambition for the majority of people. They have the work ethic and the stamina; they just need the chance to explore other fields. I never really felt threatened or unwelcome, (except when trying to shop in Sudan and they didn’t accept international cards in stores or at ATMS! WTF!!!) I was just married or engaged to every boy on my tour at some point. I’ve grown from this trip, I’m more aware, more tolerant, more mature (just ask my sister, at the airport I was tagged as the older sibling and that NEVER happens) and I know I’ll be back to do West Africa and revisit some of my favourite spots soon.
But now I guess I should summarize with my best 3 of everything, decided with much difficulty and constant changes. I could most likely have a top 10 of everything but like my photos (soon to finally make their debut) I need to cull them down:
Top 3 animal sightings:
1. Gorillas at Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
2. Mother and baby elephant at the waterhole in Etosha National Park, Namibia
3. Lion feeding at Antelope Park, Zimbabwe
Top 3 activities:
1. 3 day Feluca ride, Aswan, Egypt
2. Rented a car with Jen, Sohette and Rachelle to drive around Zanzibar, Tanzania
3. Skydiving, Swakopmund, Namibia
Top 3 dishes:
1. Vegetable cream bake at bush camp with chipati!
2. Peanut butter thai satay noodle
3. Stuffed green peppers and mash (my group :)
Top 3 nights:
1. Goat Races, Kampala, Uganda
2. Addis Ababa 3 night bonanza, Lalibela pub and brothels galore, didn't get home before 5am most nigths, Ethiopia
3. Shoestrings after the sunset cruise, Vic Falls, Zimbabwe
Top 3 items (still the same):
1. Saks beige cargo pants (so soft and baggy)
2. Serong
3. Hair brush (the truck windows are always open and it creates a wind tunnel!)
Top 3 campsites:
1. N.R.E. Campsite, Jinja, Uganda
2. Bishbishi, Darhab, Egypt
3. Antelope Park, Gweru, Zimbabwe
The hardest and most debated question... favourite country??
ETHIOPIA!
A great combination of culture, people, history, scenic countryside awe, food, nightlife and cool cities.
But an honorable mention to Sudan for the greatest adventure and sense of achievement!
Final words:
Don't forget Africa, I never will!
Bring it on South America... those are some pretty big shoes to fill
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